PREMIER MINI TRIPOD ( used with JAZZ DIGITAL CAMERA)

Tired of propping your camera up with a pebble when you're shooting a group photo that you also need to be in?
This handy little tripod solves all that.
The tilt head is easy to aim precisely; the adjustable and telescoping legs keep everything steady.
Just set the camera timer and get into position for a great group shot.
Fits all 35mm, digital, and video cameras with tripod socket
Small but sturdy; keeps camera still for ultra-crisp shots
Tilt head adjusts to any angle
Telescoping legs extends to 8-1/2"

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BUSHNELL BINOCULARS & DIGITAL CAMERA GREAT FOR BIRD WATCHING, CONCERTS OR SPORTING EVENTS!

GREAT FOR BIRD WATCHING, CONCERTS OR SPORTING EVENTS!
Bushnel­l® ImageView 8x30 2.1 Digital Camera /Binocular is a combination of a digital camera and compact roof-prism binoculars, so you can observe and record the action close-up at the same time and minimize the gear you carry into the woods.
Bushnell has combined the high magnification and powerful performance of a Bushnell® binocular with the advanced technical wizardry of a compact digital camera, giving you the option to capture and save any sight you experience.
Easily capture images with the built-in 16MB of RAM or expand your storage capacity with the Secure Digital SD card slot. (SD card not included)
The Bushnell 11-8321C comes with a carrying case and adjustable shoulder straps to allow you to carry them easily.
PhotoSuite software is included to allow you to download your images and edit them as needed.
The Bushnel­l® ImageView is great for bird watching, nature, vacations, stadium sports, hunting, concerts and much more.
Hold onto all those magic moments forever with these powerful, compact binoculars that let you Zoom in, view and record all those exciting moments in your life!
Features:
8 x 30 mm magnification
Fully coated lens
Center focus system
Fully coated optics
Fold down eyecups
Roof prism system
320-feet field of view at 1000 yards
2.1 megapixel digital camera for still photos
1600 x 1200 high resolution images, 1280 x 1024 low resolution
AVI movie files up to 30 seconds
Rubberized and textured surface for extra grip
10-second self-timer
16 MB of internal memory
SD card slot (SD card not included)
USB interface
Operates on one (1) CR123A battery (not included)
Includes:
Bushnell ImageView Digital Camera Binoculars
Carry case with shoulder strap
USB cable
Software CD
Lens cleaning cloth
Shoulder straps
Manual

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Darkroom Wizardry Vs Digital Magic

By Donovan Gauvreau

In the past, producing fine art nature photography was always a touchy combination of talent, patience, and precision. However, with the advancement of computer technology and software programs such as Photoshop, the relentless, tireless photographer who crouched in dawn's early light to catch that particular scene is a rare find. Moreover, negatives then had to undergo a lengthy process involving chemicals and formulas and be deftly set up to dry in a darkroom. Today, with the touch of a few buttons, the same image can be produced in almost no time at all. This is the reality of modern photography. Slide film, chemicals, filters, and darkroom techniques are falling by the wayside, thanks to digital software programs that allow the user to adjust the focus, color saturation, size, and opacity of an image without leaving the computer screen.

Photography in Focus

In the days when slide film was still widely used for fine art nature photography, there were two popular brands, Fuji made Velvia, a film which was used for more vividly-colored landscapes, and Provia, which produced colors that looked more true-to-life. Photographers would choose their film according to what and how they were shooting. With the prevalence of digital cameras, film is no longer needed, being replaced by miniscule memory cards that can hold up to two gigabytes of information. Once the images are stored on the card, they can be taken to, what is now called the digital darkroom. Transferring something captured on film onto a computer involves scanning the image onto a CD, DVD, or other storage device, and then opening it in the computer as an image file. However, camera cards can simply be popped into certain computer models or quickly transferred by way of a USB cord. Once the image is in the computer, issues that would be of concern in a traditional "wet" darkroom, such as choosing the printer paper, creating the right balance of color, and maintaining proper shadows and highlights are addressed.

Color Saturation

Some believe that digital photography can make any quality of image look great, but that is a misconception. Computers may aid in the enhancement of an image, but it cannot take a poor image and turn it into a masterpiece. Color saturation in the digital age is a relatively easy concept as it simply requires clicking on a button. In the traditional darkroom, color pictures needed numerous filters, and the process had to be effected in complete darkness. Although Photoshop has improved on this, the hue/saturation command cannot be used at will; too much color and the photo could turn garish or overly colorized, like a neon sign. Photographers of the past did not have that luxury, so in trying to achieve the best lighting possible for fine art nature photography, they would usually wait for what is called the "golden hour." Trees, flowers, rocks, and water, all seem to photograph better in the subtle glow of the setting sun.

With the prevalence of Photoshop and other software of the ilk, the level of creativity in fine art nature photography has been enhanced. Visions that were hard to achieve with the traditional methods can now be easily realized. Nonetheless, both traditional and digital photography employ talent, a certain vision and precision. It is true that working in a darkroom is not as simple as clicking on the Photoshop icon, but there is something to be said about anxiously watching an image immersed in a shallow bath slowly coming to life on a blank piece of paper.

Art Historian, Donovan Gauvreau lectures about art therapy with a focus on creativity development. He believes we can learn from the great masters in art to communicate ideas and feelings through painting. He provides content to Aaron Art Prints to educate and inspire people to take a glimpse into an artist's life to better understand the meaning behind their work.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Donovan_Gauvreau

The Making of an Image - Roseberry Topping

By James Paul

Great Ayton is one of my very favorite locations. The village, itself steeped in history, is a great starting point for exploring the North Yorkshire Moors and in particular Roseberry Topping. The distinctive peak, dubbed the 'Cleveland Matterhorn,' stands at only 320 metres high yet it can be seen for many miles. Thanks to the local geology and an array of footpaths including the Cleveland Way it is not hard to find a great view point in which to view the hill.

Being only 20 minutes away from my home, Great Ayton is one of my default locations. If I'm short of time or I don't want to travel far, i'll goto Great Ayton. This philosophy leads to a familiarity and understanding of the local landscape which I think is essential for any photographer. On one particular evening in late September this familiarity and understanding was crucial in capturing this image.

It had been a very poor day, the rain had been pounding down and there was little hope of getting out let alone producing a great image. To be honest, I was resigned to staying in. I kept going out into the garden and looking up at the sky for any sign of the weather changing. As I capture images in the so-called 'Magic Hour' time was running out to make a decision whether to go anywhere. As the cut off point approached I finally noticed a little glint of light way in the distance. It offered a faint glimmer of hope but there was certainly every chance of the clouds eating the light back up. Despite this I just thought 'go for it' and with my car loaded up I headed off for Great Ayton.

My familiarity of the location led me to be very aware that the angle of the sun in the last hour of light would lead to its rays being cast over Cliff Ridge and onto the peak. As I got closer to Great Ayton I could see the strength of the sun growing and felt more confident that I could get a great image. Despite this it was actually still raining at the time.

It was a mad dash upto Cliff Ridge through the delightful Newton Wood. Ignoring all the lovely scenery and great views I finally managed to make it too the ridge and quickly set up. Almost immediately, the elements fell into place - the rain stopped and the sun burst into life falling below the thick bank of cloud that had brought so much gloom. It was a spectacular sight and one that I was fortunate to have just enough time to set up and capture an image that has been one of my most successful.

The proximity of the location had been crucial in capturing this image. Had Roseberry Topping been even one mile further away I would not have made it, it was literally split second. I was also fortunate to have made such a late gamble to go out, and a night in front of the TV had been quite tempting. If there is a lesson then it is one that almost anything can happen even when the outlook doesn't look great.

I must have shot this view on many occasions and in a multitude of differing weathers. Every visit increased my understanding of the local environment and allowed me to work out what time of year I could capture this view successfully. Many visits produced poor results, but it can be said that there are positives to be taken from a shoot that has not been successful. It allows you to rule certain things out. Understanding when you can't do something is a key characteristic and allows you to grow as a photographer.

James Paul,
http://www.jamespaulphotography.co.uk

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=James_Paul

Movies and How to Share Them on the Internet

By Peter Martin Jones

There are an increasing number of sites popping up all over the place on the internet that will let you upload your movies to show them to others.

The biggest and most popular of these is You tube with millions of visitors viewing the site every day. The good news is that it is easy to upload your movies to this site and they will accept file sizes of up to around 1 GB and this will easily allow you upload even quite large movies if you wish but the larger the file size, the longer it will take to upload.

Before you attempt to upload anything, you should check the size of your movie file by using "Get Info" (Mac) or by right clicking the file and selecting "Properties" (Windows). Most files that are uploaded are around 10 to 50MB, which is a reasonable size with relatively short upload times so I suggest you try files of this size first before tying to go larger.

Note: to find the "You Tube" site, simply type "You Tube" into your browser search box.

The first thing you have to do is to register with You Tube. This is very straightforward and only takes few minutes to provide the few details they ask for. You will need to provide a user name and password and once you register these; you will receive a confirmation email of your registration almost immediately.

Now log into You Tube with your user name and password and the click on the "upload button at the top right of the screen. You will be asked to provide a title and a short description for the movie like this for example - "Skateboarding" for a title and "The Thrills and Spills of Skateboarding as a description.

Alternatively, you could shoot a custom-made movie about your hobby, to explain a technique or some interesting aspect of it. For example, if you like painting in watercolor, you could shoot a movie showing beginners how to paint great skies. In this case, you could use "Painting Skies" for a title and maybe "Painting Skies in Watercolor for Beginners" as a description. You will be asked to select a category for your video and some tags if you want to. Tags are simply keywords that help people search for topics of interest to them more quickly.

You will also have to state whether the video is for general public viewing for all to see or for personal viewers only. If you choose personal, the movie will only be viewable by people you personally invite. In this case, your selected viewers will have to log in to You Tube to be included in the "authorized viewers list".

Once you have entered and submitted the information a new page appears. Click the "search for file" button"and navigate to the file you want to upload. Then click the "upload" button. The upload time can be anything from a few minutes to an hour or more depending on the size of the file and when the upload is complete, you will see a confirmation message appear.

Do not expect your movie to be available for viewing immediately though. The You Tube servers first have to process and compress the AVI format in to a flash format which can take a while - obviously, the larger the file, the longer the wait - so go and have a coffee and come back later.

One positive spin off of putting your movies on You Tube is that you can use it a sales vehicle to attract visitors to your a web site if you have one.

Whether you want to use a movie for commercial purposes or just for fun, You Tube is a great vehicle for showing off your videos. Incidentally, you can put up a video on almost anything you like (within reason) from using yoyo's to music with mood pictures. The choice is yours so why not give it a go - its fascinating and great fun.

My name is Peter Martin Jones and I enjoy computing and photography in both film and digital formats.

If you would like to look at a completely free book on digital photography and other freebies, then you may like to visit my web site at;

http://www.picturememory.co.uk

The book covers everything from choosing a camera through editing your images to scanning your old film negatives and slides and uploading your image files to the internet. Everything you need to know for successful digital photography.

The book is based on my experience as a photographer and the many questions I have been asked by people who find some aspects of digital photography confusing or who simply want more information.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Peter_Martin_Jones

Fantastic Fireworks Photos in Four Bites

By Robert Bezman

Fireworks are the visual rulers of the nighttime universe. No matter how many times we see and experience their bombastic splendor, we always return to see what new designs will be exploded onto the darkened sky.

Watching fireworks is easy. Taking fantastic fireworks photos is not. Although photographing these light shows are more challenging than capturing a daylight shot of Uncle Ben riding a goat, it is not impossible. By following these four fireworks guidelines, you will take years off your learning curve and come away with fantastic fireworks photos.

There are four main categories of guidelines to understand, in order to take fireworks photos that aren't all black or out of focus. The big four are:

1. Equipment
2. Picking Your Location
3. Controls and Settings
4. Photographing Fireworks

Equipment

In addition to the standard equipment list including batteries, memory, camera bag, etc.; here is a shortened list of critical fireworks-only equipment to bring along:

* Tripod - Realize that your results will probably be disappointing if you don't use a tripod!
* An external shutter release (a.k.a. a "cable release")
* A tiny flashlight so you won't be fumbling around in the dark trying to move camera controls
* A chair that is easy to get in and out of

For best results, your camera should be able to focus manually as well as be able to set desired shutter speeds of up to 15 seconds, or "bulb." If you have never taken a picture with your camera other than in the "Automatic" setting, it's time to review your owner's manual and determine what the maximum shutter speed is.

Picking Your Location

Choosing the optimal location is a little bit harder than deciding how you can squeeze into a piece of 2 foot x 3-foot real estate on the lawn.

* Look For The Optimum Vantage Point: Avoid sitting in an area with obstructions such as streetlights, overhead wires, or trees.
* Decide if you want to capture additional elements (such as reflections off bodies of water or landmarks) with your fireworks photos, and if so-position yourself accordingly.
* If you are going to be taking fireworks photos, it is worth your time to spend 30 minutes before the show begins to pick out the best location.

Controls and Settings

Unlike taking pictures in the daytime, there is a little bit more setup involved with nighttime photography. For starters, change the ISO setting to 200 or 400. You want your camera to be more sensitive to light but not so sensitive that it will create "digital noise."

* Change the focusing mode on your camera to manual and focus your camera to infinity.
* Set up and level the tripod.
* Attach the remote shutter release to the camera and use that to fire the shutter.
* Adjust the shutter speed. If you have a "Bulb" setting, this is the time to use it.
* If you do not have a bulb setting, use a mid range aperture such as F/5.6 and set the shutter speed to at least 1 to 2 seconds.

Photographing Fireworks

Obviously this is what it all comes down to. It doesn't matter that you perfectly prepared with the perfect equipment if you never took any pictures of fireworks.

Your camera is on its tripod and the shutter release cable is attached. What's next?

* Verify that the manual focus is on infinity.
* Point your camera toward the area of sky where you believe the fireworks will be exploding. (Don't be too disappointed if you need to reposition the target area; most do at first.)
* Your shutter speed is on "bulb" or set for at least 1 to 2 seconds. When do you fire the shutter? Unlike daylight photography, firing the shutter BEFORE the fireworks go off is a good idea.

Nobody can tell you when to fire the shutter because it is based on what type of fireworks photograph you want to capture. With that said, here are four possible indicators of when you might want to trip the shutter:

1. When you hear the next rocket being launched
2. When the launch trail becomes visible
3. Just before the rocket explodes, or
4. Just after the rocket explodes.

This article is a partial excerpt from our popular eBook "How to Take Unforgettable Nighttime Photos" found here -- http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/NighttimePhotography-FireworkseBooks

Robert Bezman is a professional photographer whose website http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/index.html contains thousands of tips, photographic freebies, eBooks (http://www.best-family-photography-tips.com/QuickTipseBooks) and all sorts of practical advice for the beginning and intermediate photographer. Keep in the loop with the latest tips by signing up for our free newsletter "Get the Picture?"

© 2005 Robert Bezman. All rights reserved.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_Bezman

'Thinking' With Your Camera

By Rachel Davison

When you first start taking photos, things don’t just automatically fall into place. You have to learn what to look for – it’s like anything – there is a thought process behind it, which eventually becomes automatic with practice and know-how.

Pointing and shooting – aiming the lens directly at the subject, lining up the most important features and pressing the button – isn’t going to produce that brilliant photo you are hoping for!

Many photography experts state you will take better photos if you think for a minute or two, and give yourself time to look at the scene through the viewfinder before pressing the button. Holding off for even just a few seconds, will give you an opportunity to see objects, lights, people and colours that could potentially enhance or spoil the photo.

For example, would the subject look better if you took the photo horizontally instead of vertically? Moving to the left or right, or closer to the subject might eliminate those elements that you don’t want in the photo, for example, the branch of a tree in the very top corner of the photo, which you didn’t see at first. It’s all about structure and framing and with practice, you will begin to ‘see’ and take much better photos.

But there’s nothing like trial and error. What’s fantastic about a digital camera is you can take as many photos as you like – from different angles and using a variety of settings – and then later, you can sit down and review them all and see which one’s worked best. You can delete those average shots you don’t want to see again! And soon you will be taking photos that are beyond an ordinary snapshot and end up being a photo with real impact and feeling – something you can be proud of.

Some things to try:

1. Place the subject slightly off-centre or on an angle in the viewfinder – this can create more balance and visual impact than placing the subject smack, bang in the centre of the photo

2.Are there any interesting lines or structures, which you can use to frame the subject or bring attenuation to it? Lines can add a feeling or vibe and add something interesting to the photo.

Just like anything in life, some thought and awareness about the subject and what you are wanting to communicate can help turn your photo from a jumbled mess into something that has something interesting to say. The beauty of a good photo is often the photographers’ interpretation of the subject and that awareness the viewer gets from seeing something from a totally different angle.

For more information about photography, visit the ‘Beginners Guide to Digital Photography’ at: http://digitalphotoguide.blogspot.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rachel_Davison